Retinoic acid - Retinol | B Skin Legacy

Retinoic acid, Retinol (Vitamin A)

Type of ingrédient	Retinoid
Available forms	Serums, creams
Origin	Vitamin A, derived from carotene, is the name of a group of retinoids. The term ‘retinoid’ refers to three different states of vitamin A: retinol, retinal (or retinaldehyde) and retinoic acid. Their action on the skin is the same, but the difference lies in the conversion process they must or must not undergo in the skin to be effective, and subsequently how potent they are. Retinoic acid is the strongest and is subject to prescription. Retinols are the weakest and retinaldehyde is in the middle. Once absorbed by the skin, retinoic acid, for which our skin cells have receptors, causes changes and influences their behaviour. Vitamin A as a skin care ingredient has been studied more than any other ingredient on the market today. It is a proven ingredient with a long list of proven benefits and is both effective as an anti-ageing option.
Main benefits	Stimulates collagen production to reduce wrinkles and fine lines, stimulates cell renewal, reduces sebum production, has an anti-inflammatory effect.
Characteristics	Vitamin A promotes the removal of old skin cells and stimulates the regeneration of newer, healthier, smoother cells. Essentially, it acts as an exfoliant, improving both the tone and texture of the skin’s surface. It also stimulates collagen production as it acts on the epidermis and in the dermis. It thus improves and thickens the skin and simultaneously minimises the destruction of existing collagen and elastin. It is also an effective treatment for acne. It helps to normalise sebum production and its exfoliating properties help to prevent clogged pores. With continued use, retinol works to reduce hyperpigmentation (brown spots and patches).
Target group	Everyone, and it is best to start in your mid-twenties, with the exception of pregnant or breastfeeding women. Depending on the formulation, vitamin A can potentially be too irritating for sensitive skin.
Frequency	Every night, once your skin has acclimatised to the ingredient.
Association	Always combine vitamin A with sunscreen, as it can make your skin more sensitive to the sun. Many formulas incorporate soothing ingredients such as chamomile or moisturising ingredients such as hyaluronic acid with vitamin A, to help increase the tolerance of a product.
Dissociation/ Contraindication	Alpha-hydroxy acids, such as glycolic acid, complement the anti-ageing effects of vitamin A well, but should not be used at the same time as they can cause irritation.
Side effects	Side effects include irritation, dryness and photosensitivity, and in some cases even blistering and peeling. These effects usually disappear once your skin becomes acclimatised to the ingredient.
Use	Above all, start slowly. A high concentration of vitamin A is not necessarily the best option, and it will increase your risk of irritation, forcing you to stop using it. Try using it every third night for a week or two, then increase it every second night and finally every night. You only need a small amount, about the size of a pea, for your whole face. Apply it to clean skin and make sure you use gentle products in the rest of your routine so as not to overwhelm your skin, at least until your skin is used to the vitamin A. It will take a minimum of 8-12 weeks to start seeing improvements in your skin.