AN-Arbutine
Arbutin
| Type of ingrédient | Brightener |
| Available forms | Serums, creams |
| Origin | Arbutin is a molecule extracted from bearberry that prevents the formation of melanin. It all works as tyrosinase inhibitors to provide skin brightening effects. Alpha-arbutin is the most stable and effective form of the ingredient. |
| Main benefits | Lightens brown spots, reduces the appearance of acne scars, helps even out skin tone. Gentle on skin: Because the active component of arbutin is released slowly, it may be less irritating than other skin lightening agents and better for sensitive skin. |
| Characteristics | Brown spots come from pigments produced in cells called melanocytes, which contain enzymes called tyrosinase. They can become activated whenever they come into contact with UV light, which is why you’ll notice that freckles and sunspots start to develop if you spend too much time in the sun. This is where arbutin comes in: it blocks tyrosinase and keeps the freckles in place. It’s safer than hydroquinone, which for a while was the ‘miracle’ skin lightening ingredient, until it was declared a carcinogen by the FDA (US Food & Drug Administration) when taken orally rather than applied topically. While hydroquinone works by destroying the cells that produce pigmentation and melanin, arbutin inhibits the enzymes that stimulate pigment-producing cells. |
| Target group | Arbutin is generally safe for all skin types. |
| Frequency | Arbutin can be used twice a day. It can be safely applied to clean skin with other creams and serums. It can also be used in summer as it does not make the skin more sensitive to the sun. |
| Association | Vitamin C, AHA |
| Dissociation/ Contraindication | Although there are no known negative interactions with other skin care ingredients, heat can degrade the effectiveness of arbutin. |
| Side effects | In general, there are no known side effects of this ingredient. |
| Use | Because arbutin tends to be gentle, it can be used in combination with other skin lightening ingredients, such as chemical peels and retinols. It is recommended to use arbutin twice a day after cleansing, but before any strong moisturiser. It is also important to use sunscreen daily to prevent pigmentation spots. |